Monday, October 1, 2012

Introduction: Advice to Prospective and New Backpackers


As promised, this is the first installment of my travelogue for Scotland and Wales. Some general information on which tours I took. For the Scotland tour I patronized MacBackPackers; the outfit I toured with in March 2001. I took their 5 day highland tour package. In Wales I used the services of HAGGiS Backpackers; one of the good natured rivals of MacBackPackers and took the Wales Explorer tour.  My younger brother recommended the second group, and as they are about the only remaining group which offers tours of this type in Wales I went with them.

Here are some general Observations and Recommendations to the traveler who wants to take these kinds of tours:

·         The UK is based in a group of islands off the coast of Europe.  Due to geography and economics everything there tends to cost more than most of the places you are likely to be visiting from. Have fun, buy what you like, but always be aware of what the cost is in your own currency. Also think carefully about how you intend to get the item or items you purchase home. Right now the pound is about 1.5 or 1.6 times the value of the dollar.

·         If the tour guide is well organized you will have as much or as little fun as you allow yourself to have. If the guide is not well organized you can still have a good time, just explore and get advice from the locals. A lot of locations have explanatory plaques as well. Be back at the bus on time or your itinerary will lag.

·         Most tourist destinations cost between 3 and 5 pounds entrance fee. You can walk around outside them and get great photos, but the good stuff is inside. Upkeep of a 1,000 year old castle (ruined or not) is not cheap so the price is usually reasonable.

·         Churches are often, but not always free. And if you do not see a sign ordering tourists to pay a fee before taking photos do not let yourself be bullied, after all, they are selling tourist goods in the sanctuary of a consecrated church so they have no leg to stand on.

·         Scotland is blessed with hostels which do laundry for a fee, Wales is not. If you chose to visit both of these lands and will be in Scotland first DO YOUR LAUNDRY THERE!!!!! Also, the laundry fee is higher than what you pay at a Laundromat, but unavoidable in most locations I visited as they are often very remote from urban centers.

·         Bring enough film (film, what is film?) or SD cards for your camera. You will be tempted to photograph everything. I took over 2,000 and am still sorting out the fuzzy ones from the clear ones.

·         Always wear hiking boots or something similar which has a sturdy sole and comes over your ankle or the mud and rocks will eat your Keds for breakfast. You know who you are. Fashion or cowboy boots may look good on you in a city, but may not be practical for hiking up Storr on Skye or negotiating your way to the ruined miners’ huts in Snowdonia; if they are sturdy you can get away with it, but a gripping sole is best.

·         Love your feet. If your socks are wet when you get to your hostel then change them and dry out your boots (a change of footwear can be useful in this instance). Additionally, rinsing out and drying your socks can extend their usefulness and most places have radiators you can use for this purpose if they are turned on. Take care of blisters and cold wet feet early and you will enjoy your trip much more.

·         Dress for the weather. The UK doesn’t really do summer like North America does so at a minimum pack a jacket or sweater, and a raincoat or umbrella even in July and August. For later or earlier in the season assume it will be cold part of the day for most days; wear layers. Scarves are also a good choice.

·         If you get soaked or dirty you may want to bathe when you get to your hostel. A lot of places in the UK use an on demand hot water system rather that a water heater (prices for fuel are higher so this is often an economic necessity). If you have a shower with on demand hot water then turn it on a few minutes BEFORE you bathe, and be careful when using the water or you may scald yourself. This setup can provide very hot water, a luxury after a long cold day.

·         You can bring rolling luggage instead of a backpack on a backpacker tour, but be considerate. If some of the luggage doesn’t fit under the bus (in the boot) then those suitcases will have to ride along with you, the passenger. Make sure your suitcase and carry-on luggage is a sensible size (i.e. pack light) and has room for souveniers.

·         Have a large bottle of water or the drink of your choice with you on your bus at all times.

·         Use the 3 pound meal deal to your advantage. Most grocery stores in the UK allow you to buy a sandwich, chips (crisps), and a drink for just 3 pounds inclusive of tax.

·         Oh yes, in the UK all food prices listed on an item are the price inclusive of tax! So for those of us who use a mental hedge of adding 5% to a price just to be safe, this is not necessary when you are traveling there. Not sure about other goods.

·         If the hostel you stay at has real cooking facilities (ask your guide the morning before) you can cook your own meal instead of going out to eat. This can be cheaper and a lot of fun if you team up with people who know how to cook. I recommend a small group of 3 or 4 to avoid having too many cooks.

·         If the town you stay in has only one restaurant open BE WARNED! They have a captive market and will serve whatever quality of food they please. If only one is open consider cooking your own meal. Even a boring drugstore sandwich is preferable to poorly cooked fish and chips.

·         Be ready to clean your pots as you go because other folks will also be cooking and the pot you are using may be needed by others soon.

·         When you eat out don’t eat just anywhere or you may spend too much or have a sour stomach. Get recommendations from your guide or someone who has done it before.

·         For those of you on dietary restrictions, a lot of packaged foods like sandwiches will list food allergens in the ingredients or will state that the machinery used to package it came into contact with allergens. Read labels carefully. I can say with some assurance that if you have dairy allergies, celiac disease, irritable bowel syndrome, or syndrome X that you can eat your way across Scotland and Wales without so much as a bottom burp.

·         Bring a towel or buy it there. Towel rental can be from 1 to 6 pounds (the high price included a refundable deposit) depending on where you go. Some places do not rent towels (see laundry note above) and if you do not have one you will either not bathe that night or you have to drip dry.

·         When not bathing bring deodorant or cologne/perfume. And for Heaven’s sakes BUY A TOWEL!

·         Most hostels have wi-fi, but it isn’t very good; consider that the going rate for hostel stays is between 14 and 17 pounds a night and often includes breakfast and you will see why. If more than 2 people are using laptops your cell phone may not be able to browse the web. Either use the web early or find an internet cafĂ© in the evening and surf there.

·         Since hostels really do come cheap you may encounter situations where you do not sleep well due to aromas, snoring, teeth grinding, coughing, carnal activities in the bunk below you, etc; or you may end up feeling uncomfortably public while bathing since almost all shower facilities with multiple showers are co-ed. If this does not appeal to you, or if you are traveling with your spouse you may want to look for Bed & Breakfasts in the same towns your tour is going to. You WILL pay more, but the windows should be in good repair, the heat will probably be turned on if it is cold, and there is likely to be breakfast included in the price. And unless you bring the snorer with you at least THAT won’t keep you up. J

·         Please note that Wales closes down due to winter after the last week in September. You may be able to hike or backpack there later in the year, but set your itinerary and make your plans well in advance.

·        The heavy rain in the UK in 2012 has rendered the country very prone to flooding. This may interrupt your travel plans.
·         If your travel plans change be sure to change your airline itinerary accordingly or call then several hours before the flight being missed! If you miss a connecting flight because you are already at the second destination you MUST call to notify the airline well in advance or either they or your travel agent WILL cancel your booking even if they were paid in advance. Rebooking is very expensive and a lot of people do not know about this unfortunate practice.
My next post will begin with Scotland Day 1.

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